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Sig Sauer P938 Manufacture Date Serial Number

Sig Sauer P938 Manufacture Date Serial Number 8,8/10 6482 votes

How to find out about sig serial number, sig date code, sig date codes, sig dates p226, sig manufacture date codes, sig p226 date codes, sig sauer date code. Sig p938 serial number manufacture date. Sig sauer p938 serial number lookup, sig sauer p938 serial numbers. Click on a term to search for related topics.

Has anyone bought one since? Working well.even with Remington Greenbox / UMC 115s? Also looking at a Colt Mustang or a P238.

Sig narrowed down the actual serial numbers. The serial numbers on the P938 all start with “52A0” then all numbers after that are the unique numbers to your pistol. The ones with serial numbers of 8899 and lower are the “misfit toys”. These serial numbers relate to manufacture dates of about mid-September 2012 and earlier' So post sep 2012 are good guns same for the 238 a few early ones had recalls. Heck I have heard some version of the colt had there share of problems. Personal I like both guns. They to me are some of the softest shooting pocket guns I have found and and if you like 1911 they are like a mini 1911.

I had it sent back to SIG once, was returned, and I still couldn't cycle and it was like nothing had changed. So I sold it. Glad to hear most are having good experiences with theirs. My PPK/S has been my EDC for summertime as I am mostly in shorts and t-shirt but am a little wary of the small sights should I ever need it in a bad situation. The SIG would definitely give me lots more confidence with their nightsights.

I don't see this prefix listed. Nitron finish. Manual is 'GB/F'; English/French. I have a 239 with SN starting SA4-XXXXXX from June, 2008. Blue 'Sig Sauer' Box. You have this prefix, but on 2003 & 2006 models. Two-tone finish.

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Sorry, but if i plop $700 down, i want a daggone gun thatll shoot anything!!! Plus, this day and age, im glad to just find a box of 9mm let alone the grain selection. I really wanted that little piece to work and be my EDC. Mine i think was made in Aug or Sept of 2012.

Lock back issues can be due to a variety of reasons. I have listed a few for you to check*: Be sure the inside of the magazines are thoroughly cleaned of any grease or lubricant. Be sure the gun has been cleaned and has plenty of lubrication on the slide/frame rails, outside of barrel and the hammer/spring assy. Some guns benefit from a break-in period – give the gun a few hundred rounds to break in and work smoothly. Try different ammunition. If the lower powered ammo is used in a new gun, it may cause feeding, extraction and lock back issues until the springs are broken in. Do all the magazines have the same result?

In order for a civilian firearm produced in a CIP member state to be legally imported to another CIP country, it must bear the proof mark of a CIP member state (military testing standards are, predictably, different than civilian ones). The United States does not participate in CIP, but instead formed its own standards group named. While the CIP and SAAMI do share information and cooperate, neither has a requirement regarding selling in each other’s countries. Because the US is not a CIP member state, foreign guns do not need a CIP proof mark to be sold in the US, nor do US guns need a US proof mark to be sold in CIP member countries.

SiG P226 9mm Factory 2 tone and All American manufacture (no other markings and serial number appears to be cut as the US frames are cut) 226-9-T with 2 10 round Magazines and Von Stavenhagen sights.Stainless slide with external extractor.silver colored controls and grip screws Serial Number UU 597 5XX June of 1999 I realize that this throws off the previous UU prefix US Made frames. I am told by two sources that these were made late in the 1990's and the frames may have been replaced due to outsized US made frames. This message has been edited. Last edited by:, November 04, 2012 07:27 AM. Originally posted by peters115: I recently purchased a used sig P-226 40 caliber. I am trying to find out when it was made,the frame states it was made in germany.

This lightweight, all-metal pistol builds on the trusted P238 platform, delivering accuracy and reliability with duty caliber performance. I purchased my Sig Sauer P938 in early January this year with the intent of carrying it simply as a concealed carry weapon ( ).

Here’s another image showing the marks of German/West German proof houses, along with the approximate year they were first in use. Coat of arms of SchaumburgThe shape represents a Nesselblatt, or nettle leaf.

This link talks on the issue and the good serial numbers. 'the initial release of the P938 up until models manufactured to OCT 2012 (per Sig and my research) are the ones that had FTF and FTE issues. Sig narrowed down the actual serial numbers. The serial numbers on the P938 all start with “52A0” then all numbers after that are the unique numbers to your pistol.

Sig P238 Recall Serial Numbers

The London Gunmakers Company set up a “proof house” in London, and not surprisingly firearms makers who were not part of a guild tended to fail testing more often than the guild members. Guns that passed testing were stamped with a mark representing the proof house.

Using the MV Calibration routine provides the most accurate MV and will improve the accuracy of the ballistic calculator. It is always best to use the MV Calibration routine at the farthest distance you intend to shoot.

Take your time buying a reliable firearm from a reliable company. Even in the rare instances where a firearm from a company like Sig has some manufacturer defect, they will go out of their way to remedy the issue and go as far as replacing your firearm with a brand new one. So finally, here’s my review and range report. I fired a total of 1,200 rounds (1,000 rounds of range ammo and 200 rounds of defense ammo) from my purchase date in early January 2013 to the end of March 2013. This was completed over a total of fifteen different range visits (all indoor sessions).

Some items do go out of stock periodically, especially new and popular items. In many cases we have an option on the website to be notified when a specific product is back in stock. The easiest way to check on back-ordered or out of stock items is to either visit periodically or elect to be notified when an item is back in stock. We are currently working to revamp the Legion exclusive product line with fresh products and consistent availability. SIG SAUER Electro-Optics products have an Infinite Guarantee.

Sig or not, before I ever put any weapon into service, I like to conduct several tests at the range. There are some people out there who don’t mind taking a gun right out of the box and putting their life behind the gun’s operation. If you want to rely on the one or two rounds they shoot at the factory, that’s all you. But any competent and is going to take their time and make the gun earn their trust. Of course barring any crazy manufacturer defect, the gun is going to operate flawlessly out of the box (except that most 1911s require some fine tuning) but you should really take the gun home and clean all the manufacturer’s oil off and use your. My New Baby The P938 looks just like a mini 1911 minus the beaver-tail safety.

Last year during the Shot Show, Sig Sauer introduced its second 9mm “pocket pistol.” The first was the. It’s a 100% reliable firearm (P290), just like any Sig Sauer product, but the chief complaint by shooters was that it was too “blocky” like a Glock and the trigger pull had a substantially long travel before firing, which is very similar to the P250 (not a fan of this particular trigger). So Sig developed the P938 to compete with other 9mm pocket pistols like the,,, or the to name just a few. The Sig Sauer P938 is identical in appearance and operation to the P238 (.380 ACP).

If you have purchased a pre-owned Legion pistol, please call Customer Service directly at 603-610-3000, option 1 to register. • Date of Purchase *.

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I’ve also heard one report of the Ulm proof house’s stag antler mark appearing on a the frame and slide of a 1993 SIG P226 (in addition to the Kiel mark on the slide), which would imply that the firearm required repair and re-proofing and presumably the repair took place at a location that was closer to Ulm than Kiel. Normally, you’d expect to see the Ulm proof mark on a Walther or H&K firearm. The German Definitive Mark and Nitro Testing Underneath the Kiel Nesselblatt (though the order of the marks is not important), we find the image of an eagle with the letter “N” underneath. Some incorrectly believe that the eagle mark is a remnant of Nazi-era Germany, particularly since Germany’s firearms proof mark was a previously crown, and was changed to an eagle in 1939. In actuality, the German Reichsadler (literally “Eagle of the Realm”) dates back to the eagle on the standard of the Roman Empire, and was used as a symbol of the Second German Empire as early as 1871 long before the National Socialist German Workers’ Party. The same eagle design has continued its use in West Germany since 1945, but under a new name of Bundesadler, or “Union Eagle.” The Eagle-N mark signifies that the firearm was proofed in Germany (or West Germany, depending on when the firearm was proofed), while the “N” indicates that the firearm was proofed using a Nitro Beschuss load. As “bombardment,” “shelling,” or “firing” depending on context, and “nitro” is short for “,” a highly flammable compound used to creates pressures inside the firearm higher than standard gun powder.

Tradition held that the leaves of the nettle were symbolic of the nails used to crucify Christ, so the three larger leaves represent the nails of the crucifixion. All true German and West German SIGs were test fired at the Kiel proof house, so the Nesselblatt proof mark is an indicator of a true German or West German SIG.

It’s just a great gun to shoot. My wife and other people that I’ve let put rounds down the range absolutely love the gun too. Carrying this gun concealed, as it was designed, is pleasant. With, you virtually forget you’re even carrying it. Bottom Line: Sig hit the mark with the P938 and they now have a competitive firearm in the popular 9mm pocket pistol market. I’ve tested this gun extensively and it’s my first choice when I want to carry a pocket pistol. I have no reservations with relying on this gun to save my life or the life of another.

Calibrating at 500 yards will yield a better MV than calibrating at 200 yards. This is usually caused by one or more pellets being stuck in the barrel due to the CO2 running out. This can be caused when the pellets back up and become lodged between the mag cylinder and the chamber. It can also be caused by pellets that are loose in the mag (falling out) and pellets that are not seated well or not fully leaving the mag. (Before proceeding, remove any active CO2 from the airgun). This can be fixed by taking a cleaning rod of the same caliber, inserting the rod down the barrel and gently tapping the pellet back into the magazine. After this you should be able to remove the magazine easily.

They both retail for $46 from Sig, which is on par with any high-end all-metal single stack magazines. Most gun stores are selling them for $49.99. A drawback of many micro-compact or 9mm pocket pistols available today is they can be punishing to shoot a box of fifty rounds at the range. Every major gun manufacturer today lightens their firearms by simply replacing metal with polymer. Polymer is great, but not in a micro-compact 9mm round, especially if you’re carry/defense ammo is 124gr or 147gr. The all-metal platform provides a stable platform that easily handles the recoil of any 9mm round even in a micro-compact frame. The all-metal frame really makes a difference.

Didn't see in the PDFYour date stamp could've easily been set on 09 instead of 08 accidentally. For an explanation of the specifics, you will get the best results by contacting SiGarms directly. There are still non-railed frames around, though mostly in Germany. It is possible that due to current economics, the parent company has shipped stock of parts here because it is currently cheaper to produce here than there. Yours may have been assembled here in Exeter with German parts stock and thus you got one without the rail. If you dislike it, I know of many that much prefer the 'clean' look over the 'railed' one. Again, if you want a better answer, contact SiGArms.

What are Proof Marks? Proof marks are stamps embedded in certain parts of a firearm following (and sometimes during, depending on the firearm type) its manufacturing to indicate that the firearm has been “proven” to be able to handle the specific type of ammunition for which it was designed. In modern years, they truly do serve that purpose. But like many government regulations, their origins have more to do with self-interest than safety. The first proof marks started appearing in 15th century France, and by the 17th century, European firearms guildsmen were heavily promoting their use — and lobbying their governments for laws requiring them — primarily to dissuade competition from non-guildsmen and scare potential purchasers away from un-proofed guns. In 1637, after heavy lobbying from the London Gunmakers Company, a London-area firearms guild, King Charles I issued a Royal Charter setting firearms safety standards.

The SIG would definitely give me lots more confidence with their nightsights.

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I may have been limpwristing it. But Ive never had a FTE on any of my other weapons (2 PPks, Mak, Glock, Steyr). I can say, now that I think about it, my old 938 was born on August 9 or 13th, 2012, so was indeed in the problem child category. I had it sent back to SIG once, was returned, and I still couldn't cycle and it was like nothing had changed. So I sold it. Glad to hear most are having good experiences with theirs. My PPK/S has been my EDC for summertime as I am mostly in shorts and t-shirt but am a little wary of the small sights should I ever need it in a bad situation.

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From what I’ve seen from Sig and forums like, those who had the upgrades installed were happy with the final product. I’m sure Sig used those parts from the P238 as a way of cutting costs. I mean, it’s a business so these things happen. But what sets Sig apart was how quick they identified the problem and took care of their loyal consumers. I did my research before I purchased my P938 and made sure my manufacture date was beyond SEP 2012 and my serial number was higher than 8899. Mine is actually 3XXXX, which is well beyond the problem line.

Non-Proofed “Made in Germany” Guns If you’ve read my article on, you’ll know that proof marks are one of the primary indicators or whether a SIG Sauer (or any other firearm) is truly “made” in Germany (or West Germany) as opposed to assembled in the US using German-made parts even though the parts might be stamped “Made in Germany.” Because the US is not a CIP country, guns marked “Made in Germany” do not need to be proofed in order to be sold here, as long as they are assembled in the US. In my opinion, a gun without German proof marks (with very few exceptions) is not truly a German gun. Whether that actually affects the desirability or quality of the gun is for you to decide.

I like the way my P938 handles recoil better than my Glock 26. Plus the P938 is so much easier to carry, especially IWB. Crazy Relatives Before I get into my range report/review, let's clear the air and talk about the problems many P938s experienced last year. In this section and the follow-on review, the following terms mean: FTF (failure to feed) and FTE (failure to extract).

I have some that show the unit was made on my birthday and some that may just be cool to me. This one has a low number 000201. The problem is that i have done a bit of research and there were alot of problems with from what i can tell many made below number 0008800. Yes, sig will repair for free with their lifetime warrenty but, do i really want the hassle IF and thats a big IF mine was to have the problems with FTF and FTE. Anyone have any experience with these problems with their sig P938? What happened with your problems with yours and how was it resolved?

Quote: No, there is no such history or site like that for Smith & Wesson. I wish there were.

Most earlier ones were completely made in W.Germany or Germany. Those are the easiest to determine. Goes like this: at the front end of the slide, directly opposite from the front sight, check for proof marks and a date code stamping. They look like this.

Heck I have heard some version of the colt had there share of problems. Personal I like both guns. They to me are some of the softest shooting pocket guns I have found and and if you like 1911 they are like a mini 1911. Plus I was not cursing violent trying to take them down and clean. Still more difficult then I like but I did not need a stiff drink like I did after cleaning my bodyguard ( it likes to bite me see.). I would see if SIG will take care of you maybe it is a problem gun, who knows?